Veal sweetbread with porcini in pork net with the mint sauce – by Janez Bratovž

Gabriele Zanatta wrote about him when he presented himself at the important congress “Identita Golose” this year in Milano:

“What a man Janez Bratovž, Lubiana’s number one chef and a notorious face to all the tv-viewers east of north-eastern Italy. Cheerful face, hearty laugh and as see-through as the flavors he learned to put on a dish over a 35 years-old experience. Hidden with his family behind the door of his art nouveau-retrò restaurant on central Miklošičeva street, he likes to cook the four elements: «the saltiness of water, the bitterness of fire, the sourness of air and the sweet minerality of earth», he says today. In short, he’s the Empledocles of Ljubljanica valley. Who felt the need to cross the borders of his country, in a time when the Iron Curtain didn’t allow easily Yugoslavian people to leave.
On 1975, 13 years old, he already liked to reject the teachings of his Ljubljana hotel management teachers: «they told me to do well as many recipes as I could but I said: no! I’d rather do few but with marked with a strong identity». His tough character got even tougher in the period 1987-1992, when working at Tschebull Inn in Egg am Faaker See, Austria. With a Mediterranean-international-alpine know-how on his luggage he came back home and opened his first restaurant: only four tables and a new gastronomic vocabulary for the people from Ljubjana: carpaccio, shrimp and just grilled meat. Meanings he soon deepened elsewhere: Da Vittorio in Bergamo («great professionals, great experience!»), Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV in Monaco, Chicago and again Salzburg, Austria.
Then, as he met Adrià at the Spanish congress of Madrid Fusión, foams started populating his dishes. But mildly and always as a weapon for a praiseworthy challenge: to reproduce his childhood favorite recipes, for example pig meat, without cooking the ingredient himself but only other great raw materials of land. A sort of trompe l’œil that fools the palates of those Slovenians who stopped suffering from nostalgia.”


Veal sweetbread with porcini in pork net with the mint sauce

Ingredients:
300 g of  veal sweetbread
200 g of fresh porcini
1 onion
1 dcl of oil
parsley, salt, pepper
1 spoon of creme fraiche
50 g of butter
pork net
1 egg

Sauce:
3 dcl of veal fond
80 g of butter
½ dcl of red wine
fresh mint

Preparation:
Cut the sweetbread and porcini into small pieces. heat the oil in the pan and add the cut onion.
When it’s ready add the sweetbread and cook for about 7 minutes. Then add the porcini and cook for about 5 minutes more.  Take away from fire and let it cool. When it’s cold add salt, pepper, butter, eggs and cream. Mix well and leave it for about half an hour. In the meantime the mass should stick together. Create balls and wrap them into the net: extend the net completely and wrap the balls in the way that they are fully wrapped. Put them in a baking tray and bake them at 17o degrees for 12 minutes.

Put the veal fond into the pan and cook it for 45 minutes to thicken. Add butter and mint and cook for another 20 minutes. When the sauce is cooked, whip it and strain it through a fine strainer.

Serving:

Pour the mint sauce on the plate and put on it the sweetbread.

(bellow also original recipe by Janez Bratovž – in Slovenian language)

http://www.jb-slo.com/


Photo by Janez Pukšič

TELEČJI PRIŽELJC Z JURČKI V SVINJSKI MREŽICI Z METINO OMAKO

SESTAVINE:
300 G TELEČJI PRIŽELJC
200 G JURČKI SVEŽI
1 ČEBULA
1 DL OLJE
SESEKLJAN PETERŠILJ, SOL, POPER
1 ŽLICA KISLA SMETANA
50 G MASLO
SVINJSKA MREŽICA
1 JAJCE

OMAKA:
3 DL TELEČJE OSNOVE
80 G MASLA
½ DL RDEČE VINO
SVEŽE META

PRIPRAVA:
TELEČJI PRIŽELJC ZREŽEMO NA MAJHNE KOŠČKE RAVNO TAKO SVEŽE JURČKE.
V KOZICI SEGREJEMO OLJE IN DODAMO SESEKLJANO ČEBULO. POPRAŽIMO JO SVETLO IN DODAMO TELEČJI PRIŽELJC. PREŽIMO GA 7 MINUT IN DODAMO JURČKE. PREŽIMO ŠE 5 MINUT IN ODSTAVIMO Z OGNJA. KO SE OHLADI DODAMO SOL, POPER, MASLO, JAJCA IN SMETANO TER DOBRO PREMEŠAMO IN POČAKAMO POL URE DA SE MASA SPOJI. NATO NAREDIMO KROGLJICE KATERE BOMO ZAVILI V MREŽICO.

V KOZICO DAMO TELEČJO OSNOVO TER JO KUHAMO 45 MINUT DA SE ZGOSTI. DODAMO MASLO IN METO TER KUHAMO ŠE 20 MINUT. KO JE OMAKA KUHANA JO ZMIKSAMO IN PRECEDIMO ČEZ GOSTO CEDILO.

SVINJSKO MREŽICO RAZTEGNEMO IN ZAVIJEMO KROGLJICE TAKO DA SO POVSEM ZAVITE.
DAMO JIH V PEKAČ TER PEČENO PRI TEMPERATURI 170 STOPINJ 12 MINUT.

SERVIRANJE:
NA KROŽNIK DAMO METINO OMAKO IN NANJO POLOŽIMO TELEČJI PRIŽELJC.

http://www.jb-slo.com/

The team of the JB restaurant

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